The middle portion of the laterite bricks were melting onto the next. The laterite here was already slippery, but smooth steps going down into the well? I was scared, so I held onto the sides and attempted to find newer bricks that were placed here and there. This is a well in Bekal, Kasargode.

In 48 hours, I had felt the salt of the Arabian Sea, the sand that is its companion, the rain and the mountains that lead to it. I had heard birds of the western ghats in their daily routines, the morning, the hot afternoon and in the nights. I had heard the crushing sea, the sweet diesel exhaust of trucks climbing and being stuck in traffic jams in the ghats of Sakleshpura, and the morning rain in Kasargode.

I had left by 10am, and drove through Hassan, Sakleshpura to Kasargode. Except for the afternoon sun on the bald Mangaluru highway, it was a beautiful ride.

Sakleshpura is undergoing rapid changes, it is being cemented, the ghats protest with landslides, the ghats protest by muddying the river with a lot of soil, but the bulldozer must doze, so that we may drive through the ghats with passengers dozing through the smooth roads
Everywhere, there is cement and soil flying around
There is water flowing everywhere, I do not understand how these tents holdup
Pipelines
A few stretches still have tar left
There are small landslides everywhere, all along
All the water flows, through crumbling soil and rough concrete. Through tar and through the valleys carrying the soil onto the Hemavati. The Hemavati is khaki in colour

I reach Kasargode by dinner time. The roads are impeccable, and a shower takes off the grime and gets me ready for dinner inside the city. It is humid, I sweat while I walk, it feels like Chennai, but Chennai can never feel like this, like a small town. The next morning, I drove to Bekal. In Bekal, I heard the rustle of the individual petals of the leaves of the coconut groves, which were spread everywhere. I touched the laterite of the lower western ghats and the concrete of the new Sakleshpur roads. The laterite here is quite slippery, with bigger pores and are darker.

Coconut stretches everywhere from the farther end of the photograph, a view from the fort
Bigger laterite bricks mixed with smaller, possibly newer bricks from the recent past in a step well inside the Bekal fort
Long rolls of white cloth lie on the removed soil on the side of the new, expanded road through Sakleshpur. These rolls are used to cure the concrete road that is being made everywhere.

I wish I had the time to walk around without care for time and memorise the names and sounds of the birds inside the fort. I am awfully bad with remembering or memorising birds, even though we have many avid bird watchers / people who can recognise within the living labs network. I wish I had the time to know the sounds of the leaves, maybe even the sounds of the motors that run the boats, or at least the motor that cuts the overgrown grass inside the fort.

An older man fishes on the rocks outside the fort.
Looking at the bastion

In an essay on Franchise, Dr. Ambedkar quotes Bryce while arguing for universal adult franchise.

Talking has this advantage over reading, that in it mind is less passive. It is thinking that matters, not reading, and by thinking, I mean the power of getting at facts, and arguing consecutively from them. In conversation there is a clash of wits, and to that some mental exertion must go……But in these days of ours reading has become substitute for thinking.

I would like to interpret this quote in a different context. Attempting to remember from observing, observing the birds and the sounds of the leaves and the sound of the sea requires a mental exertion of a certain kind. It requires a conversation of similes and metaphors with one’s existing memory, it must be re-remembered every so often, it must be recounted to oneself and in conversation with others.

In the grounds of the fort, there is this tall viewing ground/bastion
The fort is impeccably mapped on OSM. I followed the path that appeared to enter the coast, where I find this small entrance. A tree is visible, and I can hear the crashing waves behind, somewhere further, but I don’t see it yet. I walk closer, and I see the sea, I also notice that there is Kannada in this warning board.
I wonder how this entrance, exit, gateway, magic doorway must have felt a few centuries ago. There are no large buildings inside. No grand palaces, and apparently no multifloor buildings, not even rooms on the grounds. The everyday soldier must have been walking down into the silent sounds of the crashing sea, entering the magic portal every morning. I do not understand its history towards the end of the rule of Tippu Sultan. Did the british take over without any fight from the soldiers stationed here? The laterite is impeccable in most places, and no where can somebody find the memory of war from here without somebody telling. The rocks definitely do not tell.
The magic continues, with trees and forms that the leaves take, I had not associated with the western coast with them before. Oh, another thing I wish I spent time learning of…
It must have been a grand scene to see the boats from this bastion that extended all the way to the end of the shore. It made me wonder how deep the bastion appears to be during different tides, and how the last few centuries had not eroded the coast significantly at all. In contrast to the Chennai coast.

I must remain persistent with this attempt to remember the qualities of what little I see and do. I was caught by the tug of other commitments while I was there. Sometimes it is initiated by a subtle jealously, sometimes by the responsibility I hold towards completing something, or a few hundred things that have not been seen through till their completion. And these feelings do not force me to get off of procrastinating, but somehow only visit when I am actively not working…

One must declare your relationships if you are travelling now. I suppose only men are expected to fill the form
  • Who you think stands out in this collage is always going to be an interesting answer!

    An auto preparing for street announcements/rally/propaganda show
  • I read Tragedy of the Commons, an essay by Garett Hardin, written in 1968. An otherwise a concept going much before him. It is a phrase of which I’d not understood the politics of. Now, I am beginning to. Have you read it?

    An implicit and almost universal assumption of disscussions published in progessional and semipoular scientific journals is that the problem under discussiopn has a technical solution. A technical solution may be defiuned as one that requires change only in the techniques of the natural sciences, demanding little or nothing in the way of change in human values or idea of morality.

    What it reminds me analogously in the contemporary is the solutionist approaches that gain popular opinion and provenance within civic-urban-government-data spaces in India. In this context, I will continue the quote from Bryce from the earlier paragraph.

    […] But in these days of ours reading has become substitute for thinking. The man who reads only the newspaper of his own party, and reads its political intelligence in a medley of other stuff, narratives of crimes and descriptions of football matches, need not know that there is more than one side to a question and seldom asks if there is one, nor what is the evidence for what the paper tells him. The printed page, because it seems to represent some unknown power, is believed more readily than what he hears in talk. He takes from it statements, perhaps groundless, perhaps invented, which he would not take from one of his follows in the workshop or the counting house. Moreover, the Tree of Knowledge is the Tree of the Knowledge of Evil as well as of Good. On the Printed Page Truth has no better chance than Falsehood, except with those who read widely and have the capacity of discernment.